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IN THE KITCHEN - at Saffron It's 11:00 am and Chef Edward Kim is opening Saffron.
By 11:10, Kim is cooking and by 11:20 or so, the food is served. This is not lunch service, however. Instead Kim is preparing the family meal for staff - one of many new changes for the employees of Saffron. On this Monday morning, family meal consists of trims from the steak frite Nuevo Latino on the menu, prepared in a churrasco style. In accompaniment a bowl of marinated onions, done in an Escoveitch style, and scrambled eggs with yellow tomatoes, green onions, and tortillas finish the morning's entree. Much of Kim's staff is Hispanic, and out of respect for their heritage, Kim prepares food they reminds them of home. Everyone who opens, including dishwashers and line cooks, takes the opportunity to enjoy the meal that Kim prepares and serves himself. The staff sits and eats together, passing the platters and orange juice family-style. "More than anything, it's a gesture that I'm here for the staff as they are here every day helping me. I believe everyone should be treated humanely and with respect. It's a little thank you," Kim says. "Cooking for these guys makes me happy." He also believes the meal boosts morale. The son of Korean immigrants, Kim originally intended to become a lawyer. However, after a year of law school at Fordham, he found himself disillusioned and in want of a change. "In college, being in a kitchen environment was always a natural fit with me," Kim says regarding his decision to pursue a career in the culinary world. After he left law school, he took a position as a dishwasher. As it turned out, his employer - Jean George Vongerichten - was just about to open Vong in New York City. "How wild was that?" Kim laughs. It was at Vong that Kim was first experienced the concept of preparing a family meal for staff. And while there he moved quickly from dishwasher to prep and then to Garde Manager at Vong. On the recommendation of fellow line cooks, Kim decided to attend the Culinary Institute of America (CIA). Kim believed then that the CIA "was a standard prerequisite to gain a foothold in any legitimate kitchen in NYC." After graduation, Kim embarked on a journey that led him to Oceana, Picholine, Union Square CafÈ, and Nobu in Tribeca, Citronelle in Washington, DC, the Ritz Carlton in Pentagon City, SoignÈ in Baltimore, and Merkado in Washington, DC. Currently the Executive Chef and business partner of Saffron, Kim reflects upon his experiences and appreciates the many facets that have shaped his successful career. Why is this list of stops on Kim's resume important? Even though Kim is a graduate of the CIA, he believes the best chefs are those who have worked their way up the line. If he had to do it all over again, Kim says that he would have "persevered and kept learning in the kitchens of NYC, rather than going to the CIA." Sitting at the family meal, one can see that Saffron has changed. Gone are the flying carpets on the ceiling and the sliding Indian-influenced pass-through. As a matter of fact, most of the Indian influences are gone. Saffron has been undressed and now the decor reflects its new "modern American" menu. When asked why the name of the restaurant wasn't changed as well Kim honestly answered, "It was too expensive. It would have cost something like $25,000 just for the paperwork. Also, saffron is the world's most precious and expensive spice." Saffron, the spice, has a strong coloring power and an intense flavor and aroma. These same words can describe Kim's palette and the new menu he has created. "I'm not into organics or allowing the ingredient to speak for themselves too much. I like flavors, usually big, interesting, synergies, contrasts but not polarizing, yet has Zen." Kim's belief in training and discipline is evident in the ingredients he's currently using. "I like to use seasonal ingredients as much as possible. The most common ingredient has to be some type of acidity. It could be from vinegar, fruit, or alcohol-or all of the above. Different acidity combinations yields different flavors. "The trick is to use what and how much; and rather or not to use sugar or a liquid sweetener to balance it or even should one use a reduction technique. All these questions can only be answered by someone who has true discipline, training, and credibility. It is not as easy as opening a food and wine magazine or going online to food network.com." By 11:45, family meal is winding down; staff are savoring the last of the morning's creation. Certainly, there are no leftovers. Kim believes he has assumed a parental role here; it's his responsibility to take care of his staff. To him, it's "very symbolic. It's like washing their feet. I don't have to, but I do." The menu's changed, there's new staff that bonds together each day at the family meal, the dÈcor is different, but will these changes alone make Saffron successful? What is the one thing that will turn Saffron around? Kim believes in himself, saying simply, "It's me. It's all me. This is my baby, my family, and I'm responsible." With that, Kim heads into the kitchen to start the day's prep, working right alongside the rest of the staff. Saffron (410) 528-1616 802 North Charles Street - Lars Rusins Owner/Founder of Baltimore Foodies ARCHIVES MAIN PAGE |
