Baltimore Eats - WINE TALK - Carmenère the Rising Star of Chile

In the 1870's the dreaded root louse Phylloxera was devastating the vineyards of Europe. Bordeaux was particularly hard hit and unfortunately, the grape variety Carmenère did not survive in Bordeaux. Carmenère is a member of the Cabernet family of grapes but it is susceptible to Coulure which results in very low yields and mildew. The Bordelaise were so wiped out after Phylloxera they didn't want the hassle of this tough to grow grape variety.

Meanwhile, the Chilean wine business was just getting on its feet. Finally independent of Spanish domination and attaining wealth from some of their natural resources, the Chileans were discovering the finer things of life. Wine, of course, is one of them so they traveled to Europe to bring back vine cuttings. As luck would have it some of the cuttings they brought to Chile were of that same Carmenère grape. The vines themselves however, look much like the Merlot grape and they were unknowingly mixed in the vineyard plantings. It wasn't until 1994 that the French ampelographer Jean Michel Boursignot identified the Carmenère variety grown in Chile.

Now, back in the late 1980's, with the emergence of the Chilean wine business, we tasted many Merlots from down there. I always thought Merlot from Chile tasted very herbaceous, with hints of green pepper and wondered why. With Boursignot's discovery in 1994 the explanation was apparent... Merlot is an early ripening variety and Carmenère a late one; if picked early those herbaceous and "green" aromas come through. The variety also does poorly with too much rainfall. Back in the eighty's the Chileans would flood their vineyards as an irrigation technique!

Much has changed since 1994. In 1995 the Chilean government recognized the Carmenère variety allowing the name to appear on labels. Now Chile is the undisputed world leader in Carmenère production and the future looks bright. Aurelio Montes, one of Chile's best winemakers, planted a new vineyard in Manchegue almost solely to Carmenère . The resulting wine, named Purple Angel ($55), is stunning!

I was fortunate to taste the first vintage in 2004 before the decision was made to release a Carmenère . I told Aurelio to bottle and sell it and I am sure it was my sole opinion that helped him make the decision! When the wine is made well it exhibits a dark color and has a nose of spice and earth, with chocolate and coffee notes. The palate is full and rich with medium tannins, so early consumption is possible.

You don't have to spend a lot of money for good Carmenère either. ConchaY Toro Casillero del Diablo ($8.99) is an excellent intro to the variety. The 2006 Vina Chocalan ($10.99) is my present favorite. It is full bodied with a nose of chocolate and spice and dark red fruit. The tannins are soft, but enough is there to match well with a grilled steak.

If you would like to try one that is slightly herbaceous, the 2005 Tamaya Reserve ($11.99) will turn you on. It matches well with rack of lamb.

Back in the late 1800's in Bordeaux, Carmenère was often used for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon. Try Montes Limited Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) and Carmenère (30%) for a great example of what an 1875 Bordeaux tasted like! Note of interest: Chile is the only major wine producing country that is free of Phylloxera. The Pacific Ocean and the Andes Mountains form natural barriers to an invasion of the root louse.