Baltimore Eats - WINE TALK

I remember back in 1972, I went to see the Grateful Dead at American University in Washington DC. It was a free outdoor concert. If I recall correctly it was one of the last performances for Ron "Pigpen" McKernan, the infamous blues organist/ percussionist. During the concert a funny-shaped bottle was passed around. I recognized it as Mateus rosè.

If you are a baby boomer like myself you probably have fond memories of this rosè wine from Portugal, and its partner in crime, Lancers. These two wines introduced our generation to wine drinking. I have to admit I did not match the Mateus with food, but drank it solely for its gratuitous value. I will take "The Fifth" on any other activities...

By definition, a rosè wine is a wine colored any shade of pink, from hardly perceptible to pale red (Oxford Companion to Wine). In the wine trade they say that rosè wine is experiencing a revival in the US. I say rosè wine has always been popular, just in different forms. In the 60's and 70's it was Mateus and Lancers, the 80's and 90's White Zinfandel. All along the way dry rosè was popular in Europe. So I would say, traditional dry rosè has been re-discovered by America. The most famous dry rosès are from the south of France where they drink boatloads of the stuff during the warm summer months. It's fresh and crisp, like a white, but has the berry flavors of a red wine.

The preferred method to make rosè starts with a short maceration of the juice with the skins after crushing. The skins contain pigment and tannin. Thus, depending on the grape variety and the desired color, the maceration could take a few hours to a couple days. The juice is then separated from the skins by draining (Saignée method) or pressing, and fermentation begins. Alcohol will increase the transfer of pigments to the juice.

The Garnacha grape is frequently used to make rosè because it is low in Anthocyns, or pigmentation, and longer skin contact can be achieved, adding complexity to the wine.

The key to buying a rosè is freshness, so current vintage is important. The 2006 rosès are just arriving, so chill them up and enjoy!

A FEW FAVORITES:
Kir-Yianni Akakies 2006 Greece $10.99 A full-bodied rosè made from the Xinomavro grape, which is indigenous to Greece. The juice comes in contact with the skins for only a few hours yet the color is deep. I love the strawberry and mineral nose and dry palate. Take this beauty down to Samos for dinner.

Mas de Guiot 2006 France $8.99 Another deeply colored rosè made from 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Cabernet and 5% Cinsault. The Saignée method is used to make a marvelous wine that is very aromatic and drinks like a red. Cold roast chicken with grilled peppers and red potato salad comes to mind.

Julian Chivite Gran Feudo 2005/6 Spain $7.99 I love this bargain rosè but the 2006 has yet to arrive as of this writing (mid-May arrival). The wine is consistently good, year after year, and I'm willing to bet the 2006 will be right on the mark. Made from 100% Garnacha grapes, this beautiful fragrant strawberry pink colored wine will match Tapas perfectly.

Crios de Susana Balbo rosè of Malbec 2006 Argentina $9.99 Another deeply colored rosè made by one of Argentina's best winemakers. I love Malbec and this wine has that spicy cherry juicy quality of the grape. You could match this wine with burgers on the grill.

Bon-Bon Shiraz rosè 2006 Australia $9.99 As you might expect, this pink is slightly off-dry yet it is delightful. A nose of raspberries and strawberries in a medium bodied wine that can be enjoyed all by itself at a rock concert (Glass not required!).

McDowell Grenache rosè 2006 California $14.99 Yes, this is a bit expensive but this rosè is superb. An explosive nose of fresh red fruit is followed by a mouthfull of delicious full-bodied complex pink wine. How about a plate of good Spanish ham, Manchego cheese & fresh baked crusty bread?