 |  |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
Argentina Dreamin'  I'm facing west at an elevation of 5,000 feet gazing at snow capped mountains. It's January and the temperature is 85 degrees. Is this the mile high city of Denver, Colorado? No! I'm in the Tupungato Vineyard of Catena Winery just south of Mendoza. It is a typical summer day of bright sunshine, no clouds and no rain expected. The Andes Mountains control the weather here, where there is continual drought and 330 days of sunlight per year. The warm days and cool nights allow for more efficient photosynthesis resulting in healthier plants. The Mendoza region has the largest concentration of high altitude vineyards in the world and the Catena family has led the way in planting these vineyards to extend the growing season to attain higher levels of natural acidity and flavor. Their vineyard is planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, the signature grape of Argentina. Traditionally a blending grape for Bordeaux's great reds, Malbec has become Argentina's premium varietal. Joining me in the vineyard are my cousin David Bliden and Alejandro Sejanovich, vineyard manager for Catena. We examine the soil, the irrigation system and the stream of water rushing down from the Andes. This was a dream I had the afternoon of May 15, 2007 after a wonderful lunch and tasting at Vin in Towson hosted by Alejandro and Eric Sorlin of Billington Imports, the U.S. importer of Catena. We began with a component tasting of different vineyards, including lots of Catena's best Malbec called "Alta" (pun intended). There are very distinct flavors and aromas between the different vineyards and lots. Elevations range from 2,850 to 5,000 feet and the age of the vines, soil composition, clonal types and other factors all contribute to the terroir. The two highest elevation vineyards, which by the way, are the youngest, dominate the blend. The finished wine was the last tasted -Oh what a beauty! The next part of the tasting was informal. We tasted the Alamos line and Catena's other wines. In the Alamos line, the Malbec, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot sell for $10 and are amazing values.
The regular Catena line is made up of Malbec 2005($17.99), a blockbuster red with a nose of dark chocolate and black fruits followed by a big juicy palate of like flavors and ripe tannins. The Chardonnay 2005 is hard to beat and at $15.99 has just the right balance of oak and ripeness to satisfy both the California and French drinker. The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon ($17.99) is refined and complex with a lovely cassis and herbal nose, full rich palate and long finish. Watch out California!
All that work had our bellies rumbling and lunch was served. A grilled Caesar salad was accompanied by the powerful Catena Alta Chardonnay 2004. Not my favorite wine and food combo but it worked out OK. The big flavors of the salad and the wine sort of complimented each other. Next was a Carpaccio of beef with the Alta Cabernet 2002 and 2003. Not too shabby. The 2004 Alta Malbec was served with -what else then a juicy grilled New York Strip... perfect! After lunch I needed a nap and the dreamed ensued... carrying me back to January 2004 when I visited the stunning Catena Winery with my cousin and spent an incredible day there touring with Alejandro. The Catena winery is one of the most beautiful and technologically advanced in the world. The Catena-Zapata family's four generations of dedication to quality is unsurpassed and deserving of all the accolades it receives.
Stan Bliden, the second-generation owner of Midway Liquors on Pulaski Highway in Joppa, grew up in the wine business. His passion from early on has been wine and he is "continually amazed" by how much there is to learn about the subject. You can reach him at: winostan@aol.com
ARCHIVES MAIN PAGE |
