Baltimore Eats - WINE TALK

I used to joke that the real reason to drink white is that you're out of red! It's true that many people, no matter what they are eating, prefer to drink red wine, and that is fine. (The important thing is that you buy it at my establishment!)

Seriously though, lately I have found myself drinking more white then red. Maybe it's my diet, or that my tastes are changing -or it could be that the variety and quality of white wine is the best it has ever been.

If you read my last article on Anchovies and Manzanilla you recall I was just in Spain on a wine and food trip. My plan was to write an article on Spanish white wines but I got carried away with those Anchovies! So I guess we could consider this column a continuation of sorts...

I'd like to introduce you to three delicious whites from distinctively different areas in Spain:
Arabako Txakolina Xarmant 2005 ($11.99 750ml)
The middle name is the wine type and is pronounced chock- o- li-na. It is from the Basque country on the Biscay coast west of San Sebastian in Northern Spain. Txakolina is Spain's smallest "Demominación de Origen," (often referred to DO) region, and until a few years ago it was virtually unknown outside the region itself.

The wine is pale straw with scents of lime, grapefruit and minerals. The palate has slight CO2 with lively citrus and mineral flavors and finishes with a zingy freshness. In Spain the wine is served ice cold in small tumblers and poured from high above the shoulder to break the natural carbonic gas. Txakolina is the most common drink of tapas bars in Basque country.

Lagar de Cervera Albarino 2005 ($19.99 750ml)
This gorgeous white comes from Rias Baixas, Galicia in Northwestern Spain. The Albarino grape has been planted here for centuries but was largely abandoned after the phylloxera outbreak of the late 1800's. The wet weather in Rias Baixas tended to promote fungus and weeds but modern technologies in the vineyards and wineries has resulted in a metamorphosis for Albarino.

The bouquet is complex, with peach, pear and minerals, followed by a rich palate of similar flavors and a long spicy finish. I've found that this wine goes perfectly with my mother's Rockfish cakes.

Marques de Irun Verdejo 2005 ($11.99 750ml)
About 90 minutes north of Madrid lies the Rueda region where the Verdejo grape thrives. It's a relatively flat plateau with a sandy, gravelly soil that holds more clay as you near the riverbanks.

If you like Sauvignon Blanc you'll like Verdejo. As a matter of fact, many producers will blend Verdejo with Sauvignon Blanc for complexity, but not here. A lovely nose of white fruit, particularly apples, comes through with a hint of lime. The palate is tangy, with some citrus and apple, and a consistent finish. It's a beautiful match for grilled chicken or shrimp.